Why does all the world take a great interest in practicing Shugendo?
It may be because all people feel a sort of inexpressible anxiety about the world's circumstances in the presented day when virtual reality gives us the illusion of reality. Right now it seems many things are decreasing in value. People feel that even though they are alive, they can find no reason for living. In these stressful times, if we were in the mountains away from the logical world, walking and devoting ourselves to the deities and we could make the most of our minds and bodies, what would be brought into being?
Dewa Sanzan, the three Mountains of Dewa, hold a special place in hearts of the Japanese. The mountains were first opened as religious centers 1400 years ago in 593 by Prince Hachiko, the first-born son of the then reigning Emperor, Sushun, who was the 32 nd emperor of Japan.
When Prince Hachiko came to Haguro, he went through difficult and severe ascetic exercise. After enduring a period of penance, it is said that he saw an incarnation of Buddha and was then inspired to build shrines on Mt.Haguro, Mt.Gassan and Mt.Yudono. Bringing these deities to Mt.Haguro, he named this main shrine Dewa Sanzan Shrine.
An important idea to remember here is the introduction of the "Honji Suijaku Doctrine," Prince Hachiko believed that Buddhas had come to Japan in the form of Shinto deities, the native deities of Japan. The Shinto deities were in fact just different forms of Buddhas and Buddhas had borrowed the form of these deities to bring salvation to the Japanese people and even to the native deities themselves. This is the time when Shinto and Buddhism became very much intertwined in Japan.
During the Meiji Restoration in the late nineteenth century, Shinto and Buddhism were separated by order of the government. But even now traces of this fusion can still be seen in Dewa Sanzan, such as in the construction of the Great Zuishin Gate, the Five-Storied Pagoda, the Great Bell and the Main Shrine.
Prince Hachiko established Haguro Shugendo Asceticism as means of improving the mind and body, as a way to achieve prosperity for the nation and its people, and even in order to pray for world peace.
In Yamabushi Asceticism, ascetics immerse themselves in nature, throw away all worldly connections, purify their bodies and minds and entrust themselves to Prince Hachiko, in this way, Yamabushi, day by day, come to realize that they become one with the heart of nature (the truth of universe) and they can not live without nature and thus learn from nature.
History ①
O-Torii
Haguro town has a long history. A lot of buildings and historic spots are reminiscent of the by gone days when Haguro prospered as the mecca of mountain worship. Torii represents the gateway to the entrance of the sacred precincts where it is believed the shrine deities reside.
This vermilion-lacquered torii was built in 1923 is 21 meters high, 15 meters wide, and is the second biggest in Japan now. Its form is the ryobu style, or four-legged style, and avatar structure, or gongen structure (( gongen means incarnation of Buddha), which is a relic of bygone days when the shrine deities and the Buddhas were enshrined together.
History ②
KO・GANE・DO
This temple is named Ko・gane・do, ( small gold temple), in contrast to Sanjin Gosaiden ( Joint shrine of the three mountain's deities), which is also called O・gane・do (big gold shrine) at the top of Mt.Haguro. Thirty-three Kannons ( Merciful Buddhas) enshrined here reflect a golden color, and so it is called Kogane・do ( gold temple). This temple traditionally is said to have been built by Minamoto No Yoritomo, founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, the first warrior gavernment in Japan, to express his gratitude for the victory in conquering Oshu ( the present Tohoku region).
And in 1593 Amakasu Bingo No Kami rebuilt it on a large scale, it was designated as a natinal cultural property in 1950.
History ③
ISHI・DAN (Stone steps) no SAN・DO to SUGI・NAMIKI
From Zuishin・mon gate to the top of the Mt.Haguro, Sando (the front approach to the shrine ) and Sugi・Namiki (cedar trees line), about 1.8km, were constructed by Ten'yu Betto, 50th chief priest (the representative of Dewa three religious mountains) in 1648. It took 13 years to complete them. They are designated as natinal precious natural monuments,
Hito yama no shigururu A pile of shower of rain
In late autumn
Otoya suginamiki. Sounds in the cedar trees line.
..... Sasaki Shoha ( (by Sato)
History ④
GO・JYU・NO・TO ( Five ・Storied Pagoda)
It traditionally is said that the five ・storied pagoda was built by Taira no Masakado, a military commander in those days, from 931 to 937. A classic text says that Fujiwara no Ujiie, a court noble, rebuilt it in 1372. It is 29 meters high, 3 ken ( 1 ken = 1.8m) x 5 storied, plain wood building roofed with shingles. It is designated as a national treasure.
To sabite, rinchu aki no The pagoda looks simply elegant
In the forest.
The autumn sunlight
Hi wo fukamu. Becomes more profound.
...... Sasaki Shoha ( by Sato)
History ⑤
MINAMI・DANI (Southern Valley)
This is the site of a temple which Ten'yu Betto, the 50th chief priest, built in 1662. A great pond used to surround the temple, and cherry trees were planted in the precinct.
Matsuo Basho, the honorable haiku poet, stayed here on his way while traveling in Oku no Hosomichi and has left this poem to posterity.
Arigata ya So holy a place
Yuki wo kaorasu The snow itself is scented
Minami dani. At southern Valley.
.... Basho (by Donald Keene)
History ⑥
SAIKAN (An establishment for priests to hold divine service)
This building used to be a temple called Kozoin, which is now used as facilities for providing visitors to Dewa Sanzan with accomodation and meals (reservation is required). Festival concerning Dewa Sanzan are held here. This house commands the finest view on the mountain.
Kei koko ni At the fine view here
Me wo todometaki I'd like to stare,
Suzumikana Enjoying the cool air.
.....Suiken (by Sato)
History ⑦
SANJIN GOSAIDEN
Sanjin Gosaiden is the shrine joining together the Dewa three mountains's deities, which is visited throughout the year,even in winter. The date of its foundation is unknown, but the main building of the present shrine was rebuilt at the time of 75th Betto (the chief priest), Kakujun, in 1818. It is 28.2 meters high, 26 meters wide, and 20 meters in depth.
The thatched roof is 2.1 meters thick. No other wooden building with the thatched roof is so large in Japan as this. It is designated as national important cultural property.
Suzushisa ya How cool it is here.
Hono mikazuki no A crescent moon faintly hovers
Haguroyama. Over Mount Haguro.
...... Basho (by Donald Keene)
History ⑧
KAGAMI・IKE ( Mirror Pond)
Mitarashi・Ike ( a pond for purifying hands and mouths) in front of the Sanjin Gosaiden is called
Kagami・Ike (Mirror Pond), because in the past, worshipers at the shrine dedicated mirrors in this pond and prayed to the deities, and the pond reflects, like a mirror, the shrine. One hundred ninety bronze mirrors found in this pond were designated national important property in 1950.
History ⑨
BONSHO (the Temple Bell to SHORO ( the Belfry)
This Bell, inscribed with the year 1275, is said that to have been donated by Kamakura Shogun, who was thankful for repelling the Yuan ( Mongol) fleet the year before. It is the largest in the Tohoku district and the third largest in Japan. It is 3.14 meters tall with a diameter of 1.85 meters, and weights 19 tons. In 1973 it was designated as a national important cultural property.
The thatched gable roof of this belfry retains the style of the early Edo period. In 1618, Mogami Genjiro Ienobu, the feudal load of Yamagata rebuilt this belfry which collapsed during a typoon the previous year. It was designated as a national important cultural property in 2000.
History ⑩
KOTAKUJI・Temple
This temple is said to be the place where Prince Hachiko, the founder of Haguro, trained in the form of mountain asceticism. It is attached to the Jokado, a hall of the perpetual and sacred fire. As a holy land and the inner part of Haguro, women used to forbidden from entering this place. It is the first of 33 Kannon ((Merciful Buddhas) pilgrimages in Shounai. It is also a lodging house and the headquaters for Buddhist ascetices in autumn.
ROMANTIC ROAD
In addition to the mountains related to religions and asctices, we recommend to you many attractive historic and scenic in Haguro.
Romantic ①
MATSUGAOKA KINENKAN ((Matsugaoka Pioneer Museum)
In 1873, about 3000 former samurai from the Shonai clan reclaimed the wilderness in Matsugaoka to make a living from raising silkworms. Five silkworm‐raising buildings are extant today.
Building No.1 remains as Matsugaoka Commemorative Museum, exhibiting tools and documents, Building No.2 as an art gallery and a restaurant, and Building No.4 as a museum of farming tools. In 1989, it was designated as a national historic site.
Romantic ②
GYOKUSENJI・Temple (Temple and Garden)
Gyokusenji, located in Tamagawa Village, is said to have been founded by Ryonen Homyo Zenji, a high‐ranking priest, in 1274. Nan'ei Kenju Zenji, a Zen priest designed the garden later, and Ten'yu, a chief priest of Haguro, repaired it in 1600s. It is called " a temple flowers", surrounded with flowers throughout the year, and is designated as a national scenic site.
Romantic ③
DEWA・SANZAN・REKISHI・HAKUBUTSUKAN (Dewasanzan Historical Museum)
Built in 1970, this museum used to be located in front of the Mirror Pond as a treasure house. It houses and exhibits a lot of National Important Assets, statues of Buddha, excellent swords and documents of ascetic practice that tell us the history and culture of Dewa Sanzan.
Romantic ④
IDEHA・BUNKA・KINENKAN (Ideha Cultural Museum)
Built in 1991 on the starting point of the front approach to Dewa Sanzan, this museum, as a facility for learning the history and the culture of the three mountains in Dewa, exhibits documents and offers seminars. As a base of cultural exchanges, it also holds some experiential projects like ascetic practice in the mountains.
Romantic ⑤
GASSAN (Mt.Gassan)
Mt.Gassan, the highest peak of the three mountains at 1984 meters above the sea level, is the largest shield volcano in Japan. It is worshipped as a mountain where the spirit of our fathers sleep and is admired as a mountain of fertility that brings us rich waters. During the summer, you may see a long line of white‐clothed pilgrims on their way to the shrine at the top. Around Midagahara Moor, you can enjoy many kinds of alpine plants. Which resembles an earthly paradise.
Kumo no mine The peaks of clouds
Ikutsu kuzurete Have crumbled into fragments
Tsuki no yama The moonlit mountain!
...... Basho (by Donald Keene)
Romantic ⑥
YUDONO・SAN (Mt.Yudono)
Mt.Yudono, next to Mt.Gassan, is 1504 meters high, and is located in the inner part of the three mountains. Half way up the mountain, you reach a large orange‐colored rock, where hot spring waters gush out and is said to be an embodied deity. This is the holy place of the pilgrims' tour, so visitors were not previously allowed to speak of what they had seen there.
Katararenu I cannot speak of
Yudono ni nurasu Yudono, but see how wet
Tamoto kana My sleeve is with tears.
...... Basho (by Donald Keene)
Romantic ⑦
GASSAN・KOGEN・BOKUJO (Gassan Highland Pasture)
Cattle and Sheep are kept in pasture in 100 hectares of the Gassan Highland Pasture. You can dine outdoors on fresh barbecued mutton at Fureai House Restaurant.
Wonderful Road
In Haguro town, you'll able to eat some vegetable diet and special dishes using many products of Dewa Sanzan. All of them are concerned to mountain religion.
Wonderful ①
HANA・MATSURI (Flower Festival)
It's held on in the precinct of Haguro summit. The portable shrine carrying three offered candles modeled the flower of rice and three deities of Dewa Sanzan carry out around Kagami・Ike one time. An abundant harvest and All family's safe are prayed.
Wonderful ②
HASSAKU・MATSURI (Hassaku Festival)
It's held on Aug. 31 in the precinct of Haguro summit. On the daytime, the offering Sumo and Kendo are held. From 11pm, the pray of "fire ritual" is held by Yamabushi on ascetic training. Getting rich crops without Typoon and removing the all calamity are prayed by Yamabushi's divine power.
Wonderful ③
SHOREI・SAI (Fire Festival)
It takes place during Dec. 31 and Jun. 1 on the precinct of Haguro summit. Two Yamabushi compete their power and techniqu who performed 100 days ascetic practice. This competition is symbolized as followings; scattering the divine ropes, the ritual of burning out all devils, divine ceremony about the crow and hare. They are originated from all Dewa Sanzan, and abundant crops and the world peace are prayed.
Wonderful ④
TAKADERA・HAKKO (Festival in Takadera)
The several dances by Takadera villagers are held on May 8 at the Raiden shrine which originated from Yamabushi entertainments. Naginata, Chigo, Daysho, and Hanagasa dances are performed there.
Wonderful ⑤
HAGURO'S・SPECIAL・PRODUCTS
Abundant mountain vegetables are harvested at Mt.Gassan and Mt.Haguro. Gassan plateau's vegetables, the fresh blue berry, persimmon, Shonai rice, Sake brewed with shrine water, the cocoon's flower and the yarn spinning with wool are produced.
Wonderful ⑥
SHOJIN・RYORI (Religious Ascetic Dish)
The pilgrims to Dewa Sanzan have to deny themselves meat and fish for have themselves purified. Shukubo (Yamabushi inn) and accommodations where pilgrims stay serve several dishes using mountain and field vegetables. For example, Goma‐Tofu (sesame tofu), ground sesame and two kinds of starches are mixed then covered with some paste, and Takenoko‐Jiru (bamboo shoot soup), miso bean paste soup with Gassan bamboo shoot.

